Jonathan Anderson's Loewe has made a habit of turning everyday clothes into something slightly unreal, and Spring 2024 continued that line with a quieter kind of wit. Shown in Paris among sculptures by the American artist Lynda Benglis, the collection set aside spectacle in favour of craft, proportion and the pleasure of clothes meant to be worn.
The humour was in the details: cardigans fastened with oversized hardware buttons, trousers and skirts held at the front by a needle instead of a belt, a coat that swept across the shoulder and turned into a tote. Knitwear and leather — the house's oldest skills — carried much of the collection, from fine sweaters and tie tops to supple separates.
Elsewhere, tiered mini skirts spilled a train to one side, a cage top was built from collaged florals touched with crystals, and a bubble-hem dress was strung with fine strands like a contained fringe. Crystal-covered flats and roomy shoulder bags completed a season less about the viral image than the object itself.
